Nice start. An ice-cold draft beer ($2) arrives next, set down in a frosty glass by an amiable waiter, followed by a hunk of grilled dolphin -- freshly filleted up front in the fish market ...

Mahi-mahi means very strong in Hawaiian—an apt name given the firm, meaty flesh of these Pacific-dwelling dolphin fish ... holds up especially well on the grill. Turn to Food & Wine's guide ...