Duck Diving and Dedication Author Liza Monroy, who surfs in Santa Cruz, says that “as with writing, the one way to grow in ...

Longboards are not really a viable option because the lines of whitewater are relentless, requiring constant duck-diving. It sounds terrible, but a few waves each session make the adverse ...

You have to stand on a rock in front of the breaking wave, wait for a calm moment, and jump in and paddle like mad to the lineup, duck diving the ... away your will to surf the break.